|
Greetings from the studio. Here is
eNewsletter #5. I hope the information in here is of interest
to you. All the best to you and your business.
How I
set up this photograph
My
assignment was to photograph this gentleman for a magazine article. I was told that the photo did not have to relate in any
way to the story. "Just make it creative and
dynamic" were my only instructions.
The
photo shoot would take place in the building where he worked, a
location that had too many
white walls and not much else. But that was OK. I would
select one of the white walls to act as a canvas, and use my lights
as the paint.
We
found our setting on the bottom floor, underneath a staircase that
had an interestingly curved enclosure. Not only would it frame
our subject quite nicely, but it was something he could use to
create some neat poses. It meant some possibly
uncomfortable body positioning for him, but he seemed game.
As
for lighting the setup, I wanted a look
that would really "pop". To illuminate the
background, I decided to go with a "hot light" (a device
that holds a kind of super powered light bulb) rather than a strobe.
A strobe produces an intermittent light, but a "hot light"
sends out a continuous beam, making it much easier to see its effect
on an object. I used the shutters, which are in front of the
bulb, to shape the illumination, giving it a somewhat
defined but still abstract look. Then I moved the unit to a
variety of positions until I found an effect I
liked. Also, the color mismatch
between the "hot light" and the film's emulsion produced a
great sunset-type tone.
A
second light was readied to illuminate our subject, who was placed in a rough pose. I thought contrasty and low-angled would
be great, so I narrowed the beam and lowered the light stand.
I aimed the unit at a portion of his face and jacket. This
produced interesting patches of light on both, with the lit face
gently receding to darkness.
We
began shooting and varied the poses as we went along. The only concern was that each new pose meant a change to the
lighting setup. But these were only minor alterations, and it all worked out quite well.
What's new at the studio
I recently upgraded from
Photoshop 5 to Photoshop 7. What an awesome difference. After
installing the software, my plan was to check out some
third-party books and begin learning Photoshop all over again, from
the beginning. I waded through a number of tomes and found two
I can highly recommend: Real World Photoshop 7 by
Blatner & Fraser and Photoshop 7 Artistry by Haynes &
Crumpler.
Studying
the books and playing with the software is helping me discover all
sorts of new possibilities. And it is reinforcing what I
already know. It is a slow process that can keep me working late
into the night, but it also is darn exciting.
I
recently have been experimenting with density and saturation
manipulations in Photoshop. Here is an early result:
A tip for the
weekend photographer
There exists in the
take-a-picture-with-a-camera process a
fascinating relationship called "Reciprocity". It
involves both the shutter speed and the aperture. The shutter
speed is how fast the camera fires, whether it is 1/8000-of-a-second,
or 2 minutes, or something in-between. The aperture is the size
of the camera len's opening, which can vary from almost closed
to wide open. Both of these together determine how much light
gets onto the film. But that is only the beginning.
|
fastest
shutter speed
|
1/500
|
1/250
|
1/125
|
1/60
|
1/30
|
1/15
|
1/8
|
1/4
|
1/2
|
slowest
shutter speed
|
|
largest
aperture
|
f1.4
|
f2.0
|
f2.8
|
f4.0
|
f5.6
|
f8.0
|
f11
|
f16
|
f22
|
smallest
aperture
|
The above table has the
shutter speeds and apertures usually found on a typical 35mm camera
lens.
The top row shows the shutter speeds, left to right, from the
fastest to the slowest. The bottom row shows the apertures, left to
right, from the largest to the smallest.
The neat relationship
I mentioned is this: Let us assume that your light meter reading for a particular
shot shows a shutter speed of 1/60 at
an aperture of f11. But you decide that you want a
faster shutter speed of 1/250.
Using the above table, you can easily determine your
new aperture by moving along the aperture row in the same direction and
to the same distance as you did on the shutter speed row. Since
you moved two spaces to the left to get from the shutter speed of 1/60 to
the desired shutter speed of 1/250, you
likewise move two spaces to the left to get from the aperture of f11 to
f5.6, which is the new aperture
setting. This is called "Reciprocity". In the
next eNewsletter, I will explain the advantages and disadvantages of
using the various shutter speeds and aperture sizes.
Feedback
We would love your comments, both good and bad.
If you have a moment, please phone or send us an e-mail.
Thank-you.
We do not sell, rent, or loan our subscriber lists to anybody.
Please do
not send
me any more eNewsletters.
© Peter Glass Photography. All Rights Reserved.
|